원정 개요

BC at moraine northwest of mountain
C1 at moraine
C2 at North Face.

Bergschrund at 5900m. Lots of trouble with frequent snowfall and many minor avalanches, would have been dangerous to climb without fixed ropes. Had to go up and down between C1 and C2 often because of this, when snow consolidated and threatened slab avalanche. Also problem to get ropes out from under snow. Fixed 800m of rope at first. Another 300m of rope fixed from bergschrund to C2.

1st summit bid by 4 (except Pusnik) when established C2, exhausted and bad weather, so turned back.

2nd summit bid 28th Sept from BC. Only 29th Kolar and Misev to C2 in bad weather, improved campsite (1 member returned down on 29th). 30th many avalanches so stayed in C2; 30th night clear but -30 degrees. Started up at 5:00 am on 1st Oct with rope, came to rocks in total darkness but now getting light; 65-degrees to 72-degrees steep ice couloir (ice over broken rock - 400m long) and then longer snow field 60-degrees steep where used rope; arrived at summit 2:00 pm in deeper snow (above knee near top). Descended same route and arrived C2 6:00 pm, tired because of hard work in deep snow. No more summit attempt since summit success and left BC 4th Oct.