원정 개요

Athans and Crouse wanded route and checked it out in mid-April (15-16th) and then on 13 May went to mountain and fixed 300m of line: 3 Sherpas, Athans, Crouse and Rhoads. Back to C2 and on 15th fixed another 300m of line that day, 300m 16th and on 17th summit bid another 300m+. 17th May: Gyalzen, Lapkass and Rhoads at 5:30-5:45 am left C3 on Nuptse - had already fixed much of rope but on 17th encountered heavy snow with sugar underneath and was "arduous" up 40-degree (sometimes steeper) slope with few rock bands but mostly snow and ice, a classical alpine mountain and not terribly difficult technically. On top 3:05 pm slowed by "post-holing" new snow. Clear up high and could see had reached highest point: down to C3 Nuptse at 6:15 pm.

17 May Athans up from C2 & C3 Nuptse and on 18th left camp at 5:00 am and on top at about 11:00 am; climbed alone and in C2 that night.

28 May - Andy Lapkass: joined Nuptse party on 16 May in camp below snow rib on 16 May after having climbed Everest and rested at BC. Athans and Crouse started up for summit on 17 May with Rhoads, Lapkass and Gyalzen but turned back that day and Athans summited alone next day. 17 May was "a long day," exhausting work breaking trail but good route. Left camp about 5:00 am and on top at 2:30-3:00 pm and slept in some camp that night.