원정 개요

BC at normal site above Samagaon
C1 at Naike Col
C2 at (11th put C2 at 21,000 ft and moved it up next day)
C3 at edge of summit plateau (slightly before out of wind).

Rested in BC from 13th to 17th and up 18th. 22nd left C3 at 4:00 am, on top at 11:00 am in clear weather but wind very strong which almost knocked them over few times; had sat on plateau an hour for daylight to avoid crevasses and see where to go in general (Spanish had sat for 2 hours already and one more hour with this pair). 5:00 am started up from plateau and got to true summit after having used pickets already in place at false summit on 5m lower. Icy steep climb from North Col to plateau without fixed rope. This mountain serious climbing. "Quite adventurous with route finding needed without so many old ropes" one finds on Everest and other mountains. 22nd slept in C2 (at 4:00 pm) having packed up C3 on way down. 23rd to BC. 26th to Samagaon hoping helicopter would pick them up there but after waiting one day, walked to Phillum, where helicopter picked them up to take them to Dhaulagiri I.