원정 개요

BC just above junction of glacier
C3 at Makalu La
High point at Makalu La.

Markus Stofer from BC to C2 alone on 28 April after seeing Andre Georges go past BC that day and caught him up at C2. Stofer slept in C2 while Georges continued alone to C3 at Makalu La. That evening at 6:00 pm Jorgensen and Pauls passed C2 and went to C3 at 10:00 pm. 24th Stofer up early to convince Jorgensen to go on to C4 at 7800m (left 6:30 am and at 7:00 am Georges passed him in Georges descent having been discouraged by sleeping at La in strong wind). Stofer on La 9:10 am, where found Muir and Pierson (had slept at La) and Pauls and Jorgensen (who had slept there too). Pauls went down alone; Stofer and Jorgensen went up for C4 and then to top. Slept in C4 29th and 30th 5:00 am no wind so quickly left camp for summit. Mountain very dry but some snow in small couloir 8:15-8:30 am and climbed it from 11:30 am-12:00 together. From there had climbed unroped and Stofer went quickly to top alone and was just below it at 2:30 pm and Jorgensen at 3:00 pm (went to top together after Stofer had waited for him). Stayed on top in light wind - down together, Jorgensen leading to top of couloir, where Jorgensen didn't really want to continue (more tired than Stofer). Stofer went first, rapelling down couloir; Jorgensen rapelled down after Stofer and shouted out "rock fall" and almost immediately (about 4:00 pm) saw real body shoot past and down 300 vertical meters (500 linear meters) down the glacier field at 8000m on North Face (Tibetan side of NW Ridge). Stofer very scared, passed body 50m away but did not go to him - no motion from Jorgensen and long fall. Stofer very worried about his own solo descent with now broken pick of ice ax. Stofer reached C4 at 6:30 pm getting dark in at least half an hour later and was without headlamp. Slept in C4. 1 May stopped in C3 for food and drink (had had no water since previous early morning) and then to BC (5700m) where arrived at 4:00 pm without finding anyone in lower camps. Thinks Jorgensen fell either because of rock fall or belay rope slipped. Stofer left BC 3 May and flew from Tumlingtar on 7th and leaves on PIA on 8th.

Jorgensen tecnically competent but not capable to do extremely difficult climbs like Makalu West Pillar - was wearing red down suit. Stofer teamed up with Jorgensen only at La.

Stofer not happy about poor climbing abilities of other Pfisterer members - Ramos and Tonsing were "crazy."