원정 개요

BC at Hillary BC site
BC above glaciers' junctions and one team's BC
C1 at top of moraine just below ice
C3 at base of couloir leading to Makalu La
C3 at Makalu La
C4 at upper glacier.

22 May at 5:00 Harrison, Robertson and Pfisterer set out from C4 for top. Pfisterer turned back 4 rope lengths from top, very tired and concerned about lateness (4:40 pm) and waited for others at crevasse at 8000m at 7:30 pm when getting dark. Harrison and Robertson went to very highest point at 6:00 pm and left quickly. Met Pfisterer about 10:00 pm with one head torch amongst them. 3 down past crevasses and confused about where tent was and at 2:30 am 23 May sat down to wait daylight (no wind but cold) and returned to tent at 5:00 am when Hinkes was just emerging from it after spending night in it without prior agreement. If had not been waiting for daylight, would have found Hinkes and Dawa. Pfisterer had two 2-man tents there and Hinkes now stayed most of day and left at 4:30 pm; Harrison left at 6:30 pm, Robertson 10:30 am. Robertson at C3 at 2:30 pm sick with acute bronchitis; Harrison and spent night there; next morning Harrison (and Pfisterer) went up to him next day and had to help him down slept 24th night in C3. 25th Pfisterer and Robertson passed C2 (Robertson very slow) and another biv at 6800m while Harrison slept in C2. Meanwhile Pierson to C3 on 24th and 1:30 am of 25th Pierson alone to top from C3 and on top 2:30 pm and back to C3 7:30 pm. 26th Pfisterer and Pierson to BC while Harrison up to clear back loads and at BC 27th and Robertson also to BC 27th.

Chang left early (13 May) because was coughing badly, and after Jorgensen's death Chang questioned mountaineering motives. Muir left because she and her husband [John Muir] knew Jorgensen well.

Martin Ramos arrived late at BC with Georges, Jorgensen and Pauls and went an hour more up to US, BC at 5400m (knew Pfisterer et al, from '98 Xixa) and climbed with US expedition. 5 May slept in C4 with Americans. 6 May 20 minutes up for summit bid, but "a lot of wind and go down BC" same day. 11 May C2, 12 May Makalu La, 13 May US C4, 14 May. Again lot of wind, same snow and again to BC and climbing finished.

Ramos campsites:
BC(10/04,5400m),C1(14/04,6400m),C2(20/04,6800m),C3(25/04,7400m),
C4(04/05,7800m),xxx(14/05)