원정 개요

BC at high BC
C1 on Chago Glacier just before steep part to Makalu La
C3 at top of Japanese arrete.

Did not go to Makalu La but went to top of Japanese Couloir and then northeast to cross NW Ridge. 1st summit bid not above C3 because of winds. Adams and Rolfe left BC 8 May but had report that attempt on 9th failed from C3 [Bridges and Groom] and others staying on till end May if necessary for Groom and Bridges. Sloezen soloed Japanese arrete to C2.

Groom - 27 May: Groom and Bridges on 15 May moved C3 up to 7800m which was safer: more sheltered from fierce winds at 7600m sites and safer from avalanches. Left at 2:30 am on 16th, lot of powder snow, got lost in dark, but reached top at 12:00 noon together - got to very highest point. Too tired to go down beyond C3 at 7800m which reached at 3:00 pm has slept there on 16th; slept in BC on 17th.

Hall and Sloezen tried summit bid but wind prevented there going above Makalu La.

Bridges - 30 May: Rolfe was incompetent as a leader and had misrepresented his climbing skills.

[From Sheer Will, by Micheal Groom: Rolfe, Adams, Davenport and Sauls left BC in early May.]