원정 개요

Corona and Guevara arrived BC April and Rodriguez had made C1. 3 climbing men did acclimatization climbing to C3 in one week: live at 2200m and went to volcanoes in Mexico last 3 weekends on 5500m top to sleep. Now in BC ready for summit attempt on 26 April but very windy. 1st summit bid to C4 without oxygen but weather forecast not good and down to C2; forecast from Henry Todd was wrong and many others to top on 5th.

On 11th May 3 members and 3 Sherpas again to C4 and 9:30 pm set out for top, but very windy and very cold and Rodriguez feeling sensitive from frostbite 2 years and they down from 8500m at 4:00 am and others 5:00 am from almost same altitude and down to C2 on 12th.

25 May on at C4 when few people left on mountain; 8:25-9:00 pm of 25th left for summit now only 2 members (Corona not well and strong) and 3 Sherpas. Only Sherpas, Lhakpa and Babu Chiri with Sjogrens went half hour earlier to open route; Mexicans before Sjogrens; Mexicans arrived at balcony at 2:00 am; on S Summit 7:00 am and main summit 9:12 am, 15 minutes before Sjogrens; spent 1 hour 20 minutes on top and down to C4 at 3:30-4:00 pm on 26 May to sleep. Babu Chiri helped Mexican and Swedish members a lot and all worked as a team together. 27th to C2, BC 28th.

Summit Sherpas:
Lhakpa Nuru, 27, Thami, 1st 8000er
Mingma Chirri, 30, Thami, Everest 5/97 (when name given as Mingma Tshering)
Pemba, 27, Taksindu, 1st 8000er