원정 개요

C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 slept in on return from summit attempt
High point at South Summit.

Did not sleep in C4 til return from summit bid: 4th May left C3 7:30 am, with oxygen on and arrived 3:00 pm for rest. Left C4 10:00 pm with all 3 Sherpas and arrived South Summit 11:00 am and went down to bottom of Hillary Step. Spent 15 minutes at bottom of Hillary Step resting and decided to go down; 3 Sherpas were with him. Because of not enough oxygen left (had to wait for Athans party to fix ropes on route to S Summit and Arbin oxygen flow of 3 liters per minute). Developed snowblindness at S Col on return. No thought of return summit bid: "let me relax and enjoy climb" already made; definitely reached South Summit this days - route not technically difficult: Icefall not difficult but "must be very fast".

Sherpas:
Ang Gyalzen, sirdar, Wong Village, Namche VDC, Everest X3 including 1998 Spr
Ang Mingma, Yilajung, Namche VDC, Everest 1998 north side Japanese
Phurba, Thamo, Everest to 8500m 1997

Marcella Dunne of Himalayan Kingdoms team - 21 May: Arbin very slow but climbing on his own without escort. "I think he did a fantastic job." Never seen being pushed or pulled/short-roped.

Graham and Ray Broom, 5 May summiters, discussed Arbin's claim to South Summit and agreed they did not see him above South Col at any time.

Elsa Avila, summiter 5 May, saw him at "balcony during his descent."

Other teenager who unsuccessfully attempted Everest:
Mark Pfetzer, American, 15/1/80
Spring 1995 (15 yrs old) reached 7300m on north side and got tired he said.
Spring 1996 (16 yrs old) reached 7900m on south side (Henry Todd's team),
but sent down by very strong wind, etc.