원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face (lower than most)
C4 at South Col.

1st summit bid was made by Benegas, Guallart-Furio and Ang Dorje and 2 other Sherpas at 9:30 pm 11th. Guallart turned back at 8300m and 2 Sherpas (cold feet); 1 Sherpa had already gone back; Guallart said went down to help Sherpas but really not strong enough. Benegas continued alone and on top 8:30 am 12th and slept in C2 that night (11:00 am at South Col).

12th up to C4: C. Brown, D. Brown, Rodney, Niarchos, Matthews, Smith, Doyle, Ortega, Staartjes, Kekus and 10 Sherpas; all except 1 Sherpa left for top 10:30-11:35 pm on 12th; all reached South Summit (with O2). D. Brown (without O2) and Kekus stopped at base of Hillary Step (tired, oxygen problem) and all others to top 9:30 to 12:30 pm and all slept in C4 except Matthews who disappeared during descent somewhere above 8300m. C4 people went down to C2 in strong winds and spindrift and climb finished really; Mike Smith called expedition off on 14 May.

Smith on 17 May: Smith and Matthews summited same time. Matthews last seen below South Summit but above "balcony." Storm came up suddenly with high wind blowing spindrift snow. Smith was ahead of Matthews, stopped at balcony to wait for him and waited "a long time," then went down to Col alone for his own safety. Matthews was tired, moving slowly, but seemed "fine." Matthews not seen again. Weather was bad on 14th also and no attempt to search for him. Matthews believed to be youngest Briton to summit Everest.

* Regarding summiters: They did not include Guallart-Furio, who has told a newspaper that he reached top on 12 May. According to Benegas on 21 May by telephone, he reached 8300m only. He was client of Benegas and they headed for summit together, but he was weak and slow climber, needed 4 Sherpas to carry his oxygen, but Sherpas found him too slow and their feet getting cold, so they refused to continue up with him. He got to 8300m only; while Benegas went to top alone, Guallart-Furio went down with Sherpas. On 27 May C and D Brown and Rodney agreed with Benegas. On 30 May, Kekus said Guallart-Furio told him he was forced to turn back with Sherpas because they were going down; Kekus had the impression he did not have enough confidence to go on up without them.

Spanish newspaperman by telephone from Valancia - 31 May: Guallart received hero's welcome on return home; same man 2 June asked if it was absolutely definite that Enrique's was on OTT expedition.

Rodriguez and Guevara, Mexican Everest team - 3 June: Enrique did not reach summit. 2 Mexicans reached "the balcony" where he was. Mexicans went down from there and Enrique reached C4 also too soon for him to have gone to top and back.

Contstantine Niarchos died soon after return to London but not from his climb. He died at his Mayfair flat in London on May 31 due to massive cocaine overdose.

1 Lakpa Gelu, 32, Ruptsa near Kharikhola, Everest X5 times below
2. Tshering Dorje, 28, Kharikhola, Everest once before
3. Dawa Nurbu (Danuru), 22, Kharikhola, this his first 8000m summit
4. Pemba Rinzl, 22, Kharikhola, Everest once before
5. Kami Rita, 29, Thami, Everest X3 before
6. Nima Gyalzen, 23, Beding, Everest once before
7. Pasang Kitar, 20, Beding, Everest once before (19/5/98)