원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in West Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

5th May arrived at South Col and left 9:30 pm with Strynoe and 6 Sherpas including Babu Chiri; reached balcony at 7:00 am 6th in 50-knot wind and snowfall (except Strynoe). Pushed to 8600m in 1 hour and decided weather too bad, 1 Sherpa had turned back at 8500m, too dangerous; tried to convince Babu Chiri to turn back too but 2 other Sherpas agreed to go up with him (Babu there first) and they got to top, where 2 Sherpas helped Babu make platform for his tent and left him after 1 hour. Every hour throughout night from 9:00 pm Sjogrens monitored him. Dawa and Nima Dorje started down from top at noon but got stuck at South Summit in whiteout and biv there at returned to Col about 8:00 pm after weather cleared. Babu stayed on top 21-1/2 hours; planned to go down after 20 hours but interviews by LO's and Sherpas took an hour and then packed up small stove belonging to Sjogren and tent (left mattress). Did not have oxygen with him at all and never used it on this expedition. All down to C2 together on 7th and BC on 8th. Sjogren very tired and down to Deboche 10 May to rest - back to BC on 18th; to Col 25th and left 9:45 pm for top was 2 Swedes with 5 Sherpas; 2 Mexicans and 3 Sherpas; 1 Dawa (Strynoe) with no Sherpas. Strynoe turned back sick (flu). Sjogrens to top 9:18 am on 26th with 4 Sherpas and slept at South Col to sleep - 27th to C2, BC 28th

Henry Todd threatened to close icefall but agreed to keep it maintained but did not do so. Babu fell off ladder broke from morning and bruised ribs on 23rd in ascent but kept climbing.

Heinrich accidently caused gas cylinder to explode in BC kitchen tent; Heinrich's hand slightly burned and Dawa Sherpa's pierced by glass splinters and he left on 5 April. Sherpas were upset by this accident though no one seriously hurt and it was agreed Heinrich should leave.

Sherpa summiters:
Babu Chiri, Everest 7 times before - from Taksindu
Nima Dorje, Makalu VDC, 31 years - Everest once before 5/98
Dawa, Taksindu, Everest twice before, Babu Chiri's brother
Dawa Temba, Thamo, Everest 3 times before


Nepali Sherpa eyes new record on Everest

Kathmandu, June 4 (Reuters) - A Nepali Sherpa who spent over 21 hours on top of Mount Everest in May said on Friday that he wanted to set a speed record on the world's highest mountain.
Babu Chiri Sherpa said after a total of nine ascents and more than 21 hours stay without the bottled oxygen at one stretch on top of the 8848 metre Everest summit he wanted to the fastest climber of the peak.
"If I get a sponsor I can achieve this," the 33-year-old climber from Taksindu village in Solukhumbu district where Everest is located said after returning to KTM from his latest climb.
The current speed record on Everest is held by Kazi Sherpa also of Solukhumbu district who climbed the peak in 20 hours 24 minutes after starting from the base camp at 5350 metres (17,552 ft) in October last year.
Babu Chiri, climbed the giant peak twice in May becoming the only third human to ever scale the mountain nine times or more.
He climbed the highest mountain in the world on May 6 and spent 21 hours in the longest ever stay by any human being without the use of articial oxygen.
"The midnight with bitter cold and snow was hard," he said.
The longest time climbers have spent atop Everest has not been recorded but mountaineering experts say only a few spent a couple of hours.
Three weeks later on May 26 Babu Chiri accompanied Swedes, Thomas Sjogren and Tina Sjogren, on the first ascent by a Swedish couple and ninth by the Sherpa.
Two other Nepalis -- Ang Rita Sherpa and Appa Sherpa -- have climbed Everest ten times each.
More than 800 people from across the world have climbed Everest. Over 160 have died.