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On 11th at 9:45 pm Ogwyn and Hamilton and 2 Sherpas left Col for summit. Hamilton turned back at 8700m with oxygen problem and had had enough. Ogwyn and 2 Sherpas went on up while Hamilton waited for them at Balcony for one hour. Benegas and Ogwyn climbed together for 5 hours and Benegas to top just before Ogwyn. Returned to col about 1:00 pm. Ogwyn found climb not really difficult, but Sherpas wanted to turn around 200m or so above Col where fresh deep snow had buried fixed ropes; this snow slowed progress.

Flynn to South Col with Hamilton and Ogwyn but got frostbitten fingers above C3 and at Col, where realized this decided not to go for top but to descend.

Vinals found Icefall ladder crossings frightening and collapse of Icefall serac unnerving so never reached C1 and left in mid-April.

[Expedition did not have permit of its own: Hamilton and Ogwyn were on Kropp's permit; Dunne, Flynn and Vinals on Henry Todd's permit].