원정 개요

C1 at North Col
C2 on North Ridge
C3 on North Face.

Both members and 2 Sherpas left C3 at 12:30 pm. Weather changed for worse (winds came up) at 2:00 pm and made descent below C3 "unpleasant." Going up got to bottom of 2nd Step as sun was rising (had full moon all the time going up and saw moon setting as sun was rising - completely clear at climber's altitude and above). Climb was quite hard with unexpectedly little snow on loose rock and First and Second Step technically more difficult than Hillary Step. Cathy at summit 8:00 am and Ian at 8:10 am; Jangbu on top 8:00 am and Pemba with Ian at 8:10 am. Cathy stayed 45 minutes on top; left 8:45 am with Jangbu while Ian and Pemba left 8:30 am (doesn't like rock and waited to get past rock ridge as soon as possible). Found Babu Chiri's mattress lying on top as well as large portrait of Dalai Lama. In descent Cathy soon caught up with Ian and all 4 to C3 at 1:00 pm and down to C2 to sleep at 6:00 pm (high wind and snow below C3).

Cathy and Ian want to return Nepal for Makalu or Kangchenjunga Spr 2000 - both want to climb 5 highest mountains of Nepal.