원정 개요

C1 near Naike Col
High point at C3.

Apr 29th: arriving in BC
Apr 30th: arriving of Ed and Veikka by helicopter
May 2nd: transport to C1
May 4th: first night in C1 for Burgener, Sporri, Lauber and Sherpas.
Ed and Veikka on summit
May 5th: material depot at 6300m
May 6th: first night for Berni and Fischer in C1 (after stomach
problems in BC)
May 7th: Berni and Lauber back to BC. Rest of the group material transport
to C2. Prepare tent place, return to C1, rest of day in C1
May 8th: rest day in C1
May 9th: previewed transport to C2 had to be cancelled because
of bad weather. Return to BC.
May 10th-12th: rest in BC because of bad weather
May 13th: weather still bad, no snowfall. Burgener, Lauber, Sporri,
Fischer, Pasang and Arjun go up to C1.
May 14th: return of this group to BC because start snowing again
May 15-16th: weather is getting better. Danger of avalanches.
May 17th: C1 (all climbers) 30 to 50 cm fresh snow
May 18th: Burgener, Sporri, Fischer and Sherpas to C2. Very hard
conditions because of the fresh snow (old snow beyond was
still very soft). Our depot on the prepared camp place is
under 2m of wind-driven snow.
May 19th: after two very hard days Burgener and Sporri go back to C1
Fischer and Sherpas start to C3. Fischer returns after
6800m back to C2. Pasang and Arjun reach C3 on 7250m,
make a depot and return to C2. Together with Fischer back to
C1 in the evening. Lauber and Berni go back to BC.
May 21st all back to BC
May 22nd-23rd rest days in BC
May 24th: all to C1 except Berni (still stomach problems)
may 25th: C2
May 26th: climb to C3 with the main part of the material and with
exchanging of some old fix ropes. Arriving at C3 at 3:30
pm only. Because of much less snow we had to make half of the
tent platform in the ice by ice axe, what takes us another 3 hours.
May 27th: after a difficult night Lauber and Sporri return to C2 and
C1 in the morning. Burgener, Fischer and Sherpas intend to have
a rest day and to start to the summit early the next morning.
Bernadette didn't feel good so that I decided in the afternoon
to stop the expedition here and to go down to C2 with everything.
May 28th: return to BC with all equipment.
May 29th: cerebral edema of Arjun during the night. Sending kitchen boy
to Marpha for calling helicopter.
May 30th: helicopter flight for Arjun and Pasang to KTM
May 31th way back to Marpha for members
June 1st: rest day in Marpha
June 2nd: flight back from Jomsom to KTM

Notes:
- during the first period we had excellent conditions
- after the snowfall the conditions were hard because the old snow under
the fresh snow was very soft
- C1 was near the col on 5700m, C2 on 6550m
- between 5600m and 5800m the glacier was extremely open, the snow
bridges very weak
- Ruedi Berni had stomach problems since arriving BC. He reached C2
without sleeping there. He left BC with us.
- the way to C3 on 27th May took us much more time as we calculated
(heavy bags, controlling fix ropes, new fix points). So we arrived 3
hours later than previewed.
- the preparation of the camp platform by ice axes took us too much
power. Instead of resting, cooking, drinking and eating during the
whole afternoon we were extremely engaged to put up the tent before
night. That is the main reason, why we didn't start to the summit the
next morning.
- at least we are very happy that we returned to BC without climbing
higher. If Arjun got his edema in C3 or two it would be extremely
critical.
- the weather between the 23rd and 29th May was absolutely excellent!
- we didn't use any oxygen, except of Arjun's edema and Ruedi's stomach
problem we all was in really good health, no frostbites, no accidents.
- the BC is extremely dirty. Hundreds of empty tins, bottles and any
other kind of garbage is lieing around

Fischer's report to Tourism Ministry on 3 June 99 said:

BC - 29 April at 4700m
C1 - 4 May 5700m
C2 - 18 May 6500m
C3 - 26 May 7350m by Burgener, Fischer, Lauber, Sporri

Abandoned climb at 7350m 27 May because of "difficult conditions." Left BC 31 May and returned to Kathmandu on 2 June.

Two "Sherpas" went above BC and high-altitude porter Arjun Tamang got
cerebral edema at BC.