원정 개요

Summited during storm, bivouacked two nights.


Yoo Dong-Ok, Shanta Bhavan Hospital - 6 May 78

Left C4 6600m 22 April to biv site 6900m and next morning 23 April to summit with 2 Sherpas.

23rd morning weather good but afternoon very bad: strong wind, snow and very cold.

23rd left biv 6 am and reached top 4 pm in very bad weather after 2 pm; returned to biv site 11 pm: couldn't see site 11 pm: couldn't see site at first in storm and made temperature biv in crevasse that night very cold and strong wind.

Toes and foot frostbitten on 23rd and night 23/24.

Sherpas not frostbitten.
Reached BC 27 April because very bad weather with heavy snowfall; could leave C4 only on 26th; 26th night C1,

1st summit assault team was Ok and Sherpas; then with frostbite, bad weather with avalanche danger (Ok and Sherpas hit by avalanche near C3 on 26 April)

Leader called halt to climbing; had plans for 2 more summit attacks.

Many crevasses on route and deep snow - NE Ridge.

All members came to KTM 7 or 8 May and all return to Korea 14-15 May.


SR Sharma, Tourism - 27 April 78

Annapurna IV conquered by Yoo Dang-Ok, 32
Sirdar Passang Norbu Sherpa, 25
Sherpa Pemba Lama, 30

10 Baisak = 23 April, afternoon without oxygen.
When climbing to summit there was storm and heavy rain.


Byun You-Keun - 16 March 78

Same NW Ridge route as 1955 and 1974 Germans, Yugoslavia and Japan.

To Sisuwa by bus 20 March and then to BC 10 days - via Pisang.

BC 4000m; 4 camps above BC and biv site at 7000m; C4, last fixed camp at 6450m.

1 sirdar and 4 Sherpas above BC, up to Advance BC (C3) at 5900m as well all members

No oxygen for climbing or sleeping.

25-28 April summit, 28th April big Korean national day.
6 Koreans on expeditions (probably no doctor).