원정 개요

BC at Chinese Base Camp
ABC at normal spot
C1 at normal spot
C2 at normal spot
C3 at Tichy camp in Basin.

Party for summit crom C3 on 15th May reached yellow band and very cold and returned to C2; 17th in C3 again. On 18 May 8 people left C3 at 12:00 pm NST (Pemba, Prieto, Fernando, Richardson, Illing, Burring, Vivianne Cuq, Christian Cuq) and 2 reached the top. Richardson, Illing and Burring turned at 2:30 am NST due to bad weather (snowing) and not feeling comfortable without fixed ropes - these 3 turned at the bottom of the yellow band. V. Cuq and C. Cuq (sister and brother) turned back at 8050m concerned about weather and not comfortable on the terrain. Prieto and Fernando to top [at 11:00 NST]. With 2 Chileans to top was Pemba Sherpa who went for summit bid with other OTT clients. When others went only to yellow band and turned back, Pemba went on to top with Chileans. Prieto, Fernando and Pemba returned to C3 and spent the night. Richardson, Illing and Burring went to C1 and spent the night. They arrived at 5:00 pm NST.

Chileans had been provided with another Sherpa, but he was fat and useless, went only as far as C1. Chilean party were semi-independent: brought their own tents and sleeping bags but not food (hated OTT food and ate with Colombians and Russians, or Sherpas). Leader of Chilean party was Dr. Mauricio Purto (former Everest summiter). He was at BC briefly.

Campsites for Chilean group:

BC(24/04,4800m),ABC(26/04,5700m),C1(02/05,6400m),C2(03/05,7200m),
C3(12/05,7600m),Smt(18/05)

Rob Callingham, the doctor, went home 25 April because he was not acclimatizing. Dave Hall and Jeff Pierce went home 8 May; Dave was having problems with his ankle (bad sprain), and Jeff was not acclimatizing.

Richardson's team was involved in 3 rescues. The first rescue was Mari Abrego and Agustin. Richardson was at ABC on May 7th and heard the Spaniards were in trouble. Pemba and Gombu (summited Cho Oyu and Xixi before on trips w/Mal Duff). Were at C2 and he (Richardson) ordered the Sherpas to find Mari Abrego. Pemba found Meri. Pemba is a hero.

Richardson and his team went to the bottom of the scree slope to help carry Agustin back to ABC on May 9th. They left ABC in the morning and did not return until dark.

Amical went to the summit on May 20. On 21 May they came down from C3 to ABC. Richardson was at ABC. When he learned that two clients of Robert Rackl's were exhausted and frostbitten hands. Richardson and his team met Rackl's group at the bottom of scree slope with oxygen. They put one of Rackl's clients on OTT oxygen and the other client could walk. Rackl's had made a litter with a Gamov bag. The badly injured client not inside the bag but on top.

* May 17th was a tough summit day due to wind and snow coming down.
There was some trail-breaking to do.

* Spaniards promised to give Pemba 1000 US$ in thanks for rescuing Mari.
In the end they were reluctant to give, but Richardson made them pay the money.