원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 for acclimatization, slept in twice only
C3 (most teams think this normal site is 7500m).

Did not climb Dutch Rib because even more dangerous than other route on north side; serac above rib avalanching often. 8 hours C2 to top is too long in good conditions, very long way. Summit team left C3 at 3:30 am and on top 11:30 (first party of 3 Spaniards), 12:20 Um, Park and Ang Dawa and 1:45 Ji and Kami Dorje and Ang Dawa, who had gone down from summit for 20 minutes and waited for Ji and Kami Dorje. Spanish returned to C3 4:00 pm, Um 5:30 pm. C1 to C2 very steep ice where fixed 1200m with many seracs and bad avalanche area hard to cross (5800m-6000m). Above C2 also ice but had dangerous rock (this year very dry and exposed rock). Dawa fast and went down ahead of Ji and Kami since all seemed well with them. He reported that at 50-55 degree ice just below Col at about 8000m; other two slipped roped together and disappeared and not found in search in C3 area next day (Miss Ji in down jacket and violet down pants and blue cap; Kami in dark green jacket). All survivors slept 29th in C3 and C1 30th when snow fell heavily snowfall below C2 and much avalanching. To BC 1 May and again snowfall. Annapurna is very dangerous mountain - terrible says Juanito.

Juanito 1st 8000er was Cho Oyu in 1985 with success. 14 8000ers in 14 years, 20 expeditions. Next year Everest without oxygen. Feels some relief at having finished the 8000ers but elation.

Nepalese summiters:
Ang Dawa Tamang, Annapurna I in 1994 and 3/5/98; Everest X3, Manaslu 6/12/98
Kami Dorchi Sherpa, Annapurna I 3/5/98 and Manaslu 6/12/98