원정 개요

At first had depot at 16,500 ft on 10th but did not sleep there. Found no water between BC and regular C1 at 18,500 ft and had sirdar carry 8 liters of water to his C1/depot on 11th. 12th Fioretti climbed from BC to 5600m but again did not sleep there but again only carried load; slept 2 days in BC. Another carry to 18,500 ft on 15th but slept in BC. Did not send Sherpa up on these carries because "ethic" of his climb meant he wanted to do it all alone (although he acknowledges that with Swiss-Dutch team there at same time his climb was not really solo as he had planned). Caught headcold from Swiss team's Sherpa who coughed all over the food at supper they shared; stayed in BC 3 days with cold. 19th up to 18,500 ft and slept there. 21st went up on a day's recce and went up to see routes and slept at 18,500 ft. Started to worry about time: yakman coming to BC on 27th and he couldn't wait and would take 3 days down to Lukla and Fioretti had trekking group coming to KTM 3 May. Needed 2 days to carry to next camp at 19,300-19,500 ft. Decided to abandon climb on 21st and left 18,500 ft on 22nd for BC, carrying gear down to 16,500 ft and 23rd Sherpa up to clear mountain.