원정 개요

BC at lower than normal because no water higher
C2 on top of yellow tower.

No snow in places where expected, therefore quite difficult. Had black ice above 6200m to 6600m but teams had mountain to themselves so not great problem. Fixed 50m at traverse about 5900m and 200m at about 600m for quick descent. 24th left C2 at 6:30 am and on top "very late" at 5:40 pm because of difficulties including large crevasse at nearly 6200m (jumped with rucksack which followed by ropes and woman quite slow). On top half an hour, then down very slowly carefully (woman exhausted) and at 8:15 pm stopped at 6500m for unprepared biv in spot protected from wind. 25th went all the way to BC with both camps on their backs. Huber almost asphixiated by gas stove in tent but others in neighbouring tent heard his breathing and rescued him (threw stoves out of tent).