원정 개요

Grossan - 20 Nov 82

BC - 4110m near point 4738 on Oct 9
C1 - 4700m on glacier
C2 - 5300m on snowfield southwest of point 4738

Route = Japanese route 1970 SE Face of West Peak, same did fixed ropes.
Went over ridge north of Ghustang. Load shuttling took time and much snow face.

C3 - 5850m, southwest of Dhaulagiri VI
C4 - 6300m, northwest of Dhaulagiri VI

2 Nov C5 6600m south of point 6921, route very long and members only load-carriers.

Then decided to try for East Peak (7371m) and 3 members went to 7150m on East Ridge and then stopped when ice fell on north side of sharp knife-edge ridge was in danger of avalanching. Went for East Peak on 3 Nov: Cristin, Guibert and Grossan, other 2 as far as C4. After this went back. Expedition finished. All in BC 6 Nov.

No more climbing after 3 Nov because three making attempt had limited food and felt could not go higher without porters to help carry to make at C6 and perhaps needed more fixed ropes.

No Sherpas at all above BC. Route too long for lack of them; this was a mistake: next they would have them.

Did not try other peaks.
No accidents or frostbite.
2 arrived today, other 3 came to KTM tomorrow.


Grossan & Massardier

4 leave KTM 26-27 Sept. 1 other arrives 1 Oct and catches up with others. Bus to Pokhara and 12-15 days to BC via Kaphe Khola.

Route = SE Face (same as Japanese 1970 autumn) to West Peak and perhaps others.

BC at 4600m on Kaphe Glacier near South end of Churen's South Ridge
5 camps to upper part of Kaphe Glacier to 6800m, then to summit.

No Sherpas above BC
Medical oxygen only
Arrive BC 5-10 Oct
30 days climbing
Most difficult is in beginning: rock ridge and ice wall.
Have skis which expect to use during ascent on large snow fields (very light Nordic skis).

French Churen Himal 1982
Hotel Star on return
1st French on Churen