원정 개요

While 3 members climbed Lobuche East, other 6 members fixed ropes and established 2 camps on Pumori. Humar, Consolio, Kovac and Jeglic went for new route and reached 6250m on SE Face; had started at 6:00 am on 9th Oct and got this high point at about 11:00 pm and put tent there; could see members on normal route at same altitude and they went up and rescued injured member of Slovak Czech expedition. Those on new SE Face route went down to help with rescue on 10th. No return to new SE Face route. 14 Oct up on normal route to 6400m Slovak tent by some and others to our C2. 15 Oct pushed to top and same day back in BC.

19 Oct 97 - Ochoa on Lhotse expedition: Slovenes went up very, very fast on 9th Oct to rescue Slovak.

9 Oct 97 - Humar again - made new route on S Face to French South Pillar (French winter 1996 and French 1972). Stopped on this pillar at 6250m to go to help rescue Slovak and did not return to this route because they took several days taking care of the injured man (his leader not helpful, not around) and weather was changing daily. Went back to normal route because Nuptse climbers needed Pumori's summit for acclimatization. Had fixed 29 Oct as date to leave Nepal (and most members did).

On 1 Oct, Humar, Jeglic and Carsolio climbed Lobuche East by new route: NE Face up, SE side down.