원정 개요

BC at normal site above Samagaon
C2 at normal site
C3 at 200m higher than normal site and left of it.

After reached BC went up to C1 site several times but 17 Nov heavy snowfall and strong wind so 21 Nov retreated to Samagaon. Up to BC again 27 Nov. 29 Nov to ABC but found deposited gear buried; 5 Sherpas stayed there to dig out gear and make camp site. 1 Dec members back to ABC. 2 Dec made route through icefall fixing 400m rope and 3 Dec established C2 at bottom of seracs below plateau. 4 Dec made C3 by direct route and put it higher than normal C3's (at 7300-7400m); Korean C3 at 7600m or higher. 5 Dec stayed at C3 because very windy. 6 Dec up to top: left C3 at 5:50 am when very windy and very cold; had to around big serac and spent extra hour getting around it and finally reached top at 11:20 am when not windy but still very cold (Sherpas got slightly frostbitten fingers when taking photo of Park on summit in at least - 40 degree C cold) but clear weather. Every day windy during expedition and "I very lucky at summit times" when not strong wind this day. Other Korean members not strong climbers; Park teaching students from university and juniors, so needed 5 Sherpas. 6 Dec slept in C2 (returned to camp C3 in 1-1/2 hours from top on crusted surface so very quickly to C3) and arrived C2 5:30-6:00 pm on 6th. 7th reached BC.

Park's next 8000ers will be
Kangchenjunga in spring 1999
K2 + Broad summer 1999
Makalu autumn 1999
Xixa winter ? (TMA people don't like winter climbs)

"I hope next winter I finish all 8000m mtns." After finish: "I live with my wife and 2 sons - 10 months I am away."

Nepalese summiters:
Kami Dorchi (Dorje) Sherpa, summited Annapurna I 3 May 1998 with Koreans,
this his only previous 8000er
Ang Dawa Tamang, summited Anna I in 1994 and 1998, Everest 3 times

This expedition supported by Dong Guk University and this is why members are students and juniors getting instruction from Park.

Doubts about Park's summit success in Korea, says Korean Embassy's Y. K. Young

28 Jan 1999 - Park's reply 22 Jan 1999 is that there were no summit photos; those doubters may have thought he claimed to be photos from top he did not claim as such; he reached one meter below highest rock of summit; not safe to get on top of it.


South Korean Climber Summits Himalayan Giant
By Elizabeth Hawley

Kathmandu, Dec 16 (Reuters) - A South Korean climber who hopes to "conquer" all of the world's 14 mountains that are more than 8000 meters (26,250 ft) high, summited his ninth such giant mountain, Mt Manaslu, on Dec 6, the Nepalese tourism ministry announced today.
The climber, Park Young-Seok, a 35-year-old tour company owner from Seoul, reached the summit of the Nepalese Himalayan giant, Manaslu, the world's eighth highest mountain on December 6 with 2 two Nepalese climbers helping him.
However, Park and his two companions, Kami Dorchi Sherpa and Ang Dawa Tamang, used no bottled oxygen at all to assist them to overcome the serious lack of oxygen in the air at such great heights.
Almost every day while they were on the mountain at the end of November and the first week of December, fierce winds buffeted them. But on Dec 6 "I was very lucky at summit time" when there was little wind, Park told Reuters here today, although it was extremely cold, perhaps minus 40 degrees Celsius at the top.
Three other Koreans and 27 other Nepalese mountaineers had summited Manaslu before them since its first ascent in 1956.
Twenty one other climbers from all countries of the world have summited as many as nine "eight-thousanders."
Only five of these men have successfully scaled all 14 of them. Park said today he hopes to join this small distinguished band in about one year from now.
"I hope next winter I will finish all eight-thousand-meter mountains." He plans to climb the world's third highest mountain (Kangchenjunga on the Indo-Nepalese border) next spring; the second highest (K-2 on Pakistan's border with China) and another great Karakoram peak (Broad peak) in the summer; the fifth highest (Makalu on Nepal's border with China) next autumn; and finally one of the "lesser" eight thousanders, Xixabangma (or Shishapangma) in Tibet, next winter.
What will he do when he has finished them all? "I will live with my wife and two sons. Now I am away from home for ten months every year."