원정 개요

ABC at normal site
C1 at Palung La
Biv on North Ridge
Biv on North Ridge near point 7570m on Schneider map.

On 18 Sept climbed Palung Ri for acclimatization and then back to ABC.

4 members to C1 for N Ridge (Griso to normal route) on 25 Sept. 26th 4 tried to go to top by N Ridge but Rafals felt sick and Tovar went to ABC with him (1 night at C1) while Cadiach and Ruckensteiner on to top in alpine-style. Left biv 2 7500m at 9:00 am and reached top 6:00 pm and returned to 7500m biv at 10:00 pm. 29th descended normal route to ABC in windy and cloudy weather (not very bad). Was nice route: route "impressive" (very steep - 45-75 degrees).

Rafols and Tovar again tried to climb ridge but reached 7500m in 15 hours from night of 30 Sept from Col; from 7500m to normal C3 also 7500m on 2 Oct; 3rd Oct tried for top, reached 8000m and back because lot of wind, new snow; were not on 3rd, joined by Griso; down normal route.