원정 개요

BC at normal site (good: no snow, water is near)
C2 same as French C2
C3 well below French C3.

5th Dec reached 6100m and here route is ice wall and loose rock, but had no rope and pitons so turned back to C1 and 6th Dec to BC. Climb finished.

Looked at other possible routes, but too difficult for 2 men only.

Weather very good every day except 3rd Dec when strong wind and little snowfall which wind carried away. Very little snow was on N Face. Many crevasses, very dangerous C1 to C2, 14 big crevasses (1-3m wide with very small snow bridges) and C2 to C3, 3 or 4 big ones. Above C3 to French C4 very difficult ice, no snow at all. Left BC 18th Dec after waiting for porters (12 Dec heavy snowfall).