원정 개요

Face in bad condition: all rock and powder of rock which wind carried and went in to climber's lungs. Had already planned to go from face to NE Ridge at about 6000m and this they did. Did not intend this time to go high on face as in Autumn 1985. Followed 1985 route to 5900m plateau; most of rest of route above was 1981 descent route. Reached normal route at 6000m. Route followed was same as in Spring 1986 with difference, this time route completed. Last 200m was SW, winds up to 200 kph and climbers had to go on hands and knees.

Belak and Kozjek tried for summit twice [4 Dec and 7 Dec].

Did acclimatization in Dhampus Pass-French pass area on small unnamed peak.