원정 개요

BC lower than others
ABC most team's BC
C1 above Naike Col at start of Icefall
C2 little lower than Georgians and Bulgarians.

Big snowfall caused them to spend 8 days in BC. Depot at 7300m on 12 Oct; snow deep and stopped here to dump supplies; planned to make C3 at 7500m and go for summit from there. On 12th snowfall started again. 15th and 16th Ariano and Gonzalez up to 6400m (big crevasse needing ladder) to open route to C3 and pitch it but storm came with 80 cm new snow so down and 18th all in ABC. 23rd all members to ABC, 24th 5 up trying to get to 7300m and reached C2. 25th heavy snowfall and 26th decision to abandon climb and came down. On way from C2 to C1 at 1:00-2:00 pm avalanche struck Gonzalez, Granados and Mexican woman Karla with Bulgarian team; total 12 people from 4 expeditions were descending together and Gonzalez and Karla could be seen quickly rescued but Granados fell beyond a crevasse, which had stopped Karla and Gonzalez and could not be seen and careful search did not find him in debris of very big, avalanche 1m deep; more avalanching that day and more snow falling; had to find new route and took till 7:00 pm to reach C1, exhausted and "very depressed." This route very long.