원정 개요

BC west of Barun Pokhari (protected from wind but no water)
ABC at mouth of Chago Glacier just north of junction
C1 at small rock rib between the 2 glaciers (standard site route)
C2 at snow cave in small cwm below 6500m Col
C3 at snow cave at beginning of steep section and couloir west of Makalu La
High point at start of NW Ridge.

Made C2 west of Kangchungtse because too long carries and too much fixed rope for team of only 4 climbing members to go normal route. Above C3 climbed steeper of 2 couloirs by passing Makalu La. Intended to pitch C4 at about 7500m but never actually set up camp. Evans went up on 20th with camp gear and on 22nd retrieved it. In 1st half of January were terrible windstorms and on 12th Jan heavy snowfall. Even in late Jan when clearing mountain, often could not stand up. This is Machnik's 4th winter expedition and never such severe winds; even down to ABC 60-80 mph gusts and at C3 area up to 100 mph and below rocks off mountain. Had lost time early in expedition carrying up equipment for big expedition but only 4 members actually did serious climbing after others claimed illness and stayed on at ABC/BC. 4 members were the real climbers and Jedlinski got fed up and quit early. "Four-man expedition with big anchor behind" (anchor = members at base complaining about supplies and waiting to go home). Doctor not able to climb much because looking after sick men.

Evans went on 22nd from C3 to try for top with biv at 7700m or more and set highest point possible but terrible cold winds (-15 degrees F and constant 60-70 mph).

Sherpas: none above ABC till 3 went to C1 to help clear off gear.

Nine member team soon composed of only four climbing members, mostly because of illness. C2 was pitched in a small cwm west of Kangchungtse directly below 6500m col in ridge between Kangchungtse and Chago because for small team load carries would be too long and too much fixed rope would be needed if they followed standard route exactly. Above C3, they climbed the steeper of two couloirs bypassing Makalu La and intended to place C4 at start of NW Ridge at 7500m, but never actually pitched camp, although Evans dumped supply load at site on 20 Jan. On 22 Jan he returned to 7500m to try for summit with a bivouac at 7700m or higher, but fierce cold winds of up to 100 mph prevented him from doing more than retrieving supplies.