원정 개요

BC as same most others
Biv on snow cave steep slope above plateau.

On 29th high point of C4 reached hoping weather would improve next day but it got much much worse (terrible wind which was blowing snow into one's face). On 30th saw winds very strong, so strong could not gather equipment together but had to leave everything and fight way to plateau, where wind not so fierce. Started down 9:00 or 9:30; no problems no dangerous parts to 7900m but then came to very steep, icy, very dangerous place and at 6900m Stanchev fell 500-600m to bottom of steep face. Why he fell, don't know because he was strong. One meter's deep snow prevented recovery of body. Other 3 to C2 that night (30th). On 31st Mahruki broke trail in 1m snow to BC but Vasilev got only to C1 and Horozov spent night 100m above C1 because very tired very slow. Decision to abandon climb made on 26th says Dimitrov, after snowstorms but 3 Bulgarians and Turk did not agree and went up for one more try for top on 30th; made bad decision in view of other teams experiences, but Vasilev, for one, is old school (was party leader on Everest '84 expedition) and "he is like my father, I cannot tell him what to do."

Early departures: Thierry didn't like moving icefall and left expedition 9 Oct. 2 Mexicans involved in avalanche that killed Columbian on 26 Oct. Karla Wheelock was buried but quickly rescued and not hurt, but they left after that.