원정 개요

BC beside lake above Gorak Shep
ABC at bottom of SE Face
C1 80-90m below East Col.

Did not pitch a C1 because normal site at 6000-6100m because small space and very dangerous from overhanging seracs. 15 Nov only leader and 2 Nepalese went to summit. 3 members Skalnik, Hoermandinger and Patlik had left ABC on 14th with summit party but turned back because not fully acclimatized and had been frightened by retreating British Pumori team's horror stories of avalanching and did not reach camp at 6500m. 15th left camp at 6500m (which they called C2) at 7:15 am and reached top at 12:20 pm and down to BC at 6:15 pm. Technically difficult on East Ridge where were crevasses and just off track in deep powder snow, wind that sometimes blew climbers off track a little.

Had stayed a little late after waiting to see whether wind would become too strong but it did not and the three men went for the top. Members left BC 16 Nov in start of bad snowing weather, returned to BC 22nd to clean mountain of tents and all ropes and left 27 Nov.