원정 개요

BC southeast of South Face of Kanti Himal
ABC at bottom of South Face
High point at rock band of South Face.

On 19th started up S Face to reach East Ridge, but 600m high rock band starting at 5500m to East Ridge at 6100m defeated them. Climbed only 3 pitches upward, then gave up because of soft snow on slate-like rock. All climbing members and 4 climbing Sherpas reached high point on South Face of 5650m on 19th.

Then team went to see SW Face from hanging glacier below face and on 22nd Sept went to 5500m on glacier and decided SW Face too difficult to climb and returned to ABC and on 2 Oct returned to Mugu camp "headquarters" where non-climbing leader, doctor and others were based. 5 Oct entire expedition moved out of Mugu, splitting into several parties to make wide recess east, northeast and north of Mugu. Non-climbers made new headquarters at Simikot and climbing party of 4 members and 4 Sherpas went on to new BC for attack on Changla and West Peak of Changla.