원정 개요

BC at Changla Khola
ABC on Col (Changla Bhajang)
C1 at start of North Ridge.

29th Oct all 4 climbing members and 4 climbing Sherpas tried from ABC to climb Main Peak from West Face to reach NW Ridge, but broken icefall at bottom of face stopped them after only 150m climb, so shifted attempt to Changla West Peak. 30th made C1 for ascent of West Peak from its North Ridge. 31st ascended North Ridge to West Ridge to West Peak and down to ABC: 3 climbing members and 2 Sherpas, Ang Phurba and Chuldim, left C1 at 6:00 am; fixed 550m of rope from C1 to top in soft snow; reached top at 1:00 pm in technically easy climb. 1st Nov returned to BC.

Expedition spent total of almost 80 days trekking and only 6 days in climbing on Kanti Himal and Changla.

Ohnishi believes official main peak, 6563m, is not Changla highest peak, but that another one 6700m high on border southeast of main peak is highest.

West Summit is about 6150m, i.e. 20,177 ft.

Note: Yoshinaga refers to SW Summit instead of West Summit in his journal articles.