원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
C1 at glacier (West Fork of Kangchenjunga Glacier)
C2 at glacier
High point at East Shoulder.

Stopped at 6450m on east shoulder where it comes to East Ridge, the summit ridge which was very dangerous was double-corniced. Too dangerous to try South Face because were big seracs at top overhanging 90-degree slope. Decided this would be teams highest point on 18th but others went up to have a good climb.


Ramtang (6700m)

The team shared the same C1 as the Kangchenjunga team and this camp was established around the 10th Oct. We then avoided most of the icefall by scrambling up the lateral moraine to gain the upper glacier where C2 was pitched at 5900m. The serac band above C2 was climbed more easily than anticipated and this led to an easy walk to the foot of the South Face of Ramtang. Most of the face was threatened by a high band of seracs and a formidable cornice so we elected to climb the shoulder leading to the Eastern Summit. This turned out to be an easy neve slope of around 55 degrees and about Alpine AD standard. Fixed ropes were put in place to safeguard descent and these were removed 5 days later. On reaching the eastern summit we decided not to traverse to the main summit (which appeared only marginally higher) due to the presence of huge and dangerous double cornices.