원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
ABC at Jonnsong Glacier's west side
C1 at basin between Pyramid West Ridge & SW Ridge
C2 at temporary Camp on West Ridge
High point at West Ridge.

On 29th wanted to put camp at 6300m on West Ridge but too much wind and dumped gear at 6200m and slept in C1. Next day got only to 6100m to West Ridge where Kangchenjunga team had tent but wind too strong (80 mph) to pitch tent and down to 5800m and pitched tent there on West Ridge. 31st wind seemed to worse and thought this wind would last 5 or 6 days and didn't have enough food to wait this long and get to top and back so Ang Dorje went up to bring down gear at 6200m on 31st and climb finished. Serious climbing difficulties were on the last 500m below summit: sharp knife-edge rock with overhanging rock to be seen and perhaps cornices beyond that.