원정 개요

BC at moraine of Khumbhakarna Glacier
C1 at above rock pillar
High point at 150m before Col of NW Pillar.

Fixed rope all away from BC to C1 and had to biv at 5100m on about 2 Oct - was much snow on rock pillar and 3 days snowfall in early Oct. 13 Oct made 1st attempt to reach Col at 6350m but Pessi got altitude sickness and he to BC alone on fixed ropes and other 3 members stayed in C1. 14th another attempt to go up but Genevois stopped (very tired) at end of fixed rope at 6000m while Guy and Pellissier reached 6200m and down (too late and feet freezing and no place to biv). During descent big seracs fell off and missed 2 men but another serac came down again missing men, but now decided too dangerous to continue (ropes damaged by falling debris). Route difficult technically and dangerous.