원정 개요

BC at Kyanju Gompa lodge
ABC near moraine of Lirung Glacier
C1 at left side of snow couloir coming down from Col
C2 on SE Ridge
C3 on SE Ridge.

Difficult to find site for C2 on very sharp rock-snow ridge. Fixed rope from C1 to C3. Most difficult sector was between C2 and C3 where much moving rock on steep, sharp ridge with serac barrier just before C3.

2nd summit team [Dudek and Papaj] on 5th Jan tried for top from C3 which they had established on 2nd, gone down to C2; went 100m above C3 on 5th but stopped by wind.

Did not attempt SE Face because not enough snow which meant much falling stone which too dangerous to encounter; perhaps fast alpine-style might be okay.

Had fine weather throughout climb until 5th Jan. Route from ABC to C1 to left of Japanese 1986 spring route and C1 higher.