원정 개요

BC at Pangpema
C1 at glacier
C3 at North Col
C4 in snow hole just below the Castle on North Ridge
High point at C4.

Climb and very difficult above C2 and took one week longer than expected to occupy C3 and this week "probably cost us the summit" because when ready for summit attempt weather had become "absolutely appalling." Arrived at C4 site on 17th Oct and partly dug snow cave. High winds and fresh snowfall and much sprindrift, wind slabs and deep snow on ridge; "not a nice place." Spent night of 18th at C4 but same storm hadn't really stopped and by midday 19th weather got worse with extreme cold, high winds and at times no visibility. Down to C3 on exhausting descent. 20th to BC in one day and now no time left after having extended climbing period by four days. Had lost several days on walking because of heavy monsoon. Bryan and Comerie did most of high climbing because others poorly acclimatized.