원정 개요

BC at near glacier's junction
C1 on Chago Glacier
C2 before steep section to Col
C3 at Makalu Col.

C2 to C3 very steep and fixed 600m rope here.

7th Oct first summit bid from C4 but very deep snow and "serac zone very difficult" and turned back at 8000m. 4 ropes already fixed and this party fixed 3 ropes: Ozawa, Shinagawa, Kato and Lhakpa Nuru.

8th Oct another bid by Fukuda, Inoue, Suzuki, Gyalzen and Sange and reached 8300m at last couloir, which very steep and had no rope so turned back: Suzuki, Inoue and Gyalzen at this high point. Inoue frostbite 3 fingers (black but no loss). Suzuki too tired in descent and went missing between C4 and C3 having lost his way and bivouacked at 7500m and was found in search by Ozawa and Shinagawa found at 8:00 pm; if found much later, would have died but found Ok and slept in C3 while Ozawa and Shinagawa up to C4 for planned attack. They were too tired to make attack and went down and climb finished.