원정 개요

BC at Zakrawald Pass 4600m, Anku Tangnag on foot of Mera, then Mera La (5400m)
C1 at West Col
C2 set up.

Mountain conditions has totally changed. The Americans carried on and 2 got to the summit alpine-style. On 18th night it was snowing, so it got difficult to go up. To go higher after that meant going to BC getting rope and climbing up again. Time did not permit this.

One Austrian expedition got up to C1. Because their porters struck, they were tired. The other Austrians were after them (20 Oct). An American had died during the approach so Vancampenhoudt was under shock.

There was powder snow after 6900m and they had used the ropes earlier. It may have been possible to go up but would have been difficult without rope.