원정 개요

Changed C3 site twice because stone and snow avalanche. 1st one pitched 6th Dec, but one member Sato hit in leg by big stone and stopped climbing.

Route above C2 was new and to left of Bonington route: Bonington team was on ridge but "that ridge's left which was a little risky" because of soft ice/hard snow. Difficult climbing was from C3 to C4 because very steep rock and loose rock and often stonefall. 45-50 fixed ropes of 50m from C1 to mini-rockband at 7700m; made route from C4 to mini-rockband in 2 days with about 400m rope here, then to top. 20th Dec 3 men left C2 at 3:40 am and Seagusa at 6 am because headlamp broken and he waited for daylight, joined others at 7700m at 9:40 am; above 7700m slow going (fixed only one rope).

The route was basically the Bonington route of spring 1970, but above C2 at 6100m. Bonington's ridge was "very bad" because of loose powdered snow, so team took a couloir to its left; the couloir itself was a "little risky" because of soft ice/hard snow which was difficult to climb. They rejoined Bonington route at section of all was very steep rock between C3 and C4 (6850m and 7400m); rock was unstable and loose pieces were frequently falling, injuring a member and a Sherpa. The site of C3 was changed twice because of stone fall and snow avalanches. No bottled oxygen was used because their entire supply was in C1 and was swept away by an avalanche early in the climb.

Kobayashi fell to his death at 7900m. Saito fell just 20 meters above C4. Apparently their falls were caused by fatigue.

Accidents besides the fatal falls and Sato's leg was Sherpa's shoulder and head struck by ice 3 Dec avalanche at C1 which took away all oxygen and much fuel, food and gear; but had 2 months supply of food and fuel and many spare pieces of equipment (but not oxygen).
Had permit for Glacier Dome for acclimatization but made no attempt.

Saegusa had no headlamps so came quickly. Yagihara and Saito down together. 7900m Kobayashi slipped down; maybe snow some places hard and flat and some soft: slipped in bad snow.

Saito very tired; with Yamada on same rope and Yamada at C4 just waited 15 minutes and Saito didn't come. Saegusa saw him fall. Yamada called and Saito answered 2-3 times). Saegusa went to Saito and Saito asked for water and then fell in dark (he had no headlamp); searched but couldn't find him with headlamp.

Planned 2 summit bids but after accident all stopped. 2nd bid to be by Nazuka, Sato and Akuzawa on 22nd Dec.

3rd Dec avalanche lost much equipment and food but no one hurt.


Steve Adamson - 24 Dec 7

Japanese Annapurna I South Face

Adamson left 16 Dec. Japanese planning summit bid 21 Dec. Their C1 had been avalanched twice. Bonington route at higher part. Willing to lose 4 Japanese and 4 Sherpas before giving up - they will make it.