원정 개요

BC at small lake west-southwest of West Col
C1 at West Col
C2 at basin below point 6730m southeast of summit.

18 Oct left C2 4:20 am and on top 1:00 pm. Upper part of ridge technically difficult with many seracs. Fixed 600m of rope above C2. 2nd summit team of 4 were in C2 to go to top on 19th, but 30 cm of snow dumped on C2 and high winds during night of 18-19th, so down to BC. Decided 20th to abandon climb because upper part required guiding and Jackson not prepared to do it following his involvement in fatal illness and generally motivation dropped after success on 18th in team effort. Mountain has changed and because more difficult with much snow overloading seracs on ridge causing them to go crashing down.

The day before BC reached, Wille came in camp at 5000m tired and next day, 9 Oct Jackson walked with him to lowest point reachable that day 4500m. 10 Oct Wille showed serious symptoms of altitude sickness but able to move with difficulty to 4300m where he was given all possible aid, but he died at noon on 11th. Jackson came with body to KTM on 10th and returned to expedition.