원정 개요

BC at west side of Lhotse Shar Glacier east of Island Peak
C1 at start of SE Ridge
C2 at glacier of SE Ridge
C3 at glacier of SE Face
C4 at glacier of SE Face.

27 Sept avalanche near C2 and quickly to BC and wait for better weather (snowfall to stop). 5 Oct made camp at 7000m and moved camp to 7300m on difficult SE Face. Icefall which changed very quickly and needed re-fixing rope; fixed 5000m rope and needed more but had no more. After C4 again bad weather (snowfall and very strong wind) and summit bid on 17 Nov stopped at 8000m and down to BC and Dingboche.

Other members tried for top about 25 Oct from C4. Winds and cold stopped them on arrival at East Ridge at 8019m and down to BC.

On 1 Nov success: 26 Oct from BC to C1; arrived C4 29 Oct; tried for top on 30th but cold and winds stopped them at 8100m and back to C4; waited in C4 while very strong winds covered tent with snow. 1st Nov very good weather: no wind, no snowfall, very clear but very cold (-28 degrees C). Left C4 1 Nov 6:00 am, reached top on very route with no rope to fix on last 500m at 5:00 pm. Did not reach C4 till 4:00 am in full moonlight moving very slowly (-40 degree night) now climb finished because no more time returned BC 2 Nov. Had "dreamed" of traversing to Lhotse Middle Summit but would need a C5 near summit, route would be very difficult and probably better to try from Lhotse Main Summit.

20 Nov 98 - Russian mountain guide returned from trekking peak: Russian Press reported (early in autumn or earlier) team planned traverse Lhotse Shar -> Lhotse Middle Peak -> Lhotse Main Peak -> Everest.