원정 개요

C1 at North Col
C2 at North Ridge
High point on North Face.

Martini up to 8000m and higher several times but did not sleep above C2. Deposited supplies for C3 at 8200m but never pitched camp. First weeks weather very good but much deep snow at higher altitude and avalanche danger. Worked with Spanish woman's Sherpa to fix rope to about 8100m. On 26th Sept down to ABC to rest and because snow very deep (had used rock pitons in fixing rope on rock). 27th snow falling and bad weather continued several days.

1st Oct wind began but on 4 Oct [Martini] went to Col with Moro who went on to C2 found camp destroyed and returned to ABC. 5th Oct Martini alone to C2 with new gear but wind too strong so down to ABC and decided climb finished.