원정 개요

ABC at normal site for North Col
C1 at North Col.

Went to North Face ABC to see conditions and decided too much snow and did not attempt face at all and back to BC. 2 days in BC for acclimatization. 10 Sept Rhem and Beaugey down from C1 to ABC by snowboard in good fresh snow. Ruby reached C1 once on 18th Sept when Beaugey went up also. Ruby did not stay in C1 because felt very tired but Beaugey stayed with 3 Sherpas and on 19th Beaugey and 3 Sherpas to 7850m where deposited tents, etc and down to ABC. 23rd to C1, 24th Beaugey and Rhem to C2 (no Sherpas), but Beaugey had bad night (chest) but both tried for top on 25th. Beaugey stopped at 8000m and snowboarded to C1 while Rhem to 8100m where many windslabs were and no fixed rope and he also down; together to ABC on 25th. 19th Ruby to BC and 21st left BC for KTM because had pulmonary edema. 26th Beaugey with pneumonia to BC and 27th left for KTM. Rhem to make summit bid in early Oct.


Moro - 14 Oct 98

Rhem on 4 Oct reached 8100m again from ABC. Moro with as far as 7600m. Rhem retrieved snowboard and gear at 8100m and reported to Moro that every 100m higher, wind strength and therefore impossible to get to top; both down to ABC same day and climb finished.