원정 개요

BC north of mountain and its north glacier
ABC between north and northwest glacier
Biv above 2nd Saipal icefall of northwest glacier (in snow crevasse)
Biv at plateau
High point on NE Ridge.

Decided not to try NE Ridge because there was lot of new snow (1.5m of new snow) on it and it was long ridge. Reached ridge at highest point on 4 Nov where there were 2m of snow. Had been big snowstorm 2 days before reaching BC. Turned back because of "bottomless" powder snow at 6700m; cold winds now. Slept 4th at 6200m bivvy and 5th at ABC. Would have climbed NE Ridge if snow not been so deep. Would like to go back to same route.