한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

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Expedition Jeunes Caf/FFME

Kangtega · 1998 · 가을 (3) · France

원정 개요

BC at south end of Hinku Nuptse Glacier near Mera Peak BC
ABC at Hinku Nuptse Glacier at base of rock cliff
Biv at shoulder of NE Face.

Started to climb from ABC: 3 members started to fix start of face 19 Oct and fixed 300m and made big biv place on snowband at about 6000m (big for 7 climbers). Very technical route, very steep thin ice. Spent 2 nights here (22nd and 24th). Fixed 150-180m of rope above biv. Climbed to shoulder of ridge and here at 6550m on left part of the face 7 people could biv here 26th, 150m below top. From biv to top and back to biv; started up 8:30 am, on top 11:00-11:30 am and back to biv about 1:00 pm and rapelled down face to BC in evening about 6:00 pm. Cleaned face of all rope but left anchors for rapelling down.

  • 내부 원정 ID3190
  • 원본 EXPIDKTEG98301
  • 대장Francois Pallandre
  • 루트 (Route)NE Face
  • 최고 도달고도6783m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 8명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Francois PallandreFranceLeader성공--
Erwan Le LannFranceClimber성공--
Francois Jacques Jean MarsignyFranceClimber성공--
Sebastien Montaz-RossetFranceClimber성공--
Karen Pallandre-AllaisFranceClimber---
Franck PlenierFranceClimber성공--
Herve Christophe A. QualizzaFranceClimber성공--
Sebastien SchellFranceClimber성공--

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1998 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1998 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199937601/Asia-Nepal-Kangtega-Northeast-Face-New-Route · 1998 · 웹사이트 (5) ·