원정 개요

BC at Ngozumba Glacier
C1 at left side of Ngozumba Glacier on rock
C2 near large rock in 2nd Icefall
C3 near foot of SE Pillar.

Route too difficult for us. Glacier very long with 3 icefalls. C1 on top of first icefall; from BC to C1 2 km by zigzag line. 2nd icefall very dangerous with big crevasses. C3 on plateau at foot of pillar, SE Pillar which wanted to climb in new route. After 23 Sept every day for 7-8 days snowfall and stayed BC. When did climb, did so at night because days were too hot and avalanching. At 9:00 am 400m before C3 on 1 Oct avalanche hit Lech Flaczynski and Boguslaw because they were too late, having taken 15 hours to move in deep soft snow, but not hurt. Found C3 tent covered by 1m new snow. Route planned led to peak 7650m on East Ridge and thence westwards along ridge to highest peak; about 2 km from top of pillar to main peak. Could find no place to put tent at about 7000m and now food supplies very low so climb finished. Route is possible but need more and better climbers.