원정 개요

BC at 4115m left bank of Annapurna Sanctuary Glacier
C1 at moraine foot of glacier of Glacier Dome
C3 on snow ridge at top of rock buttress.

Storm coming as made C3 and went down to BC. Then storm over in 2 days, were below avalanche slopes and had to wait for avalanching to stop, but were now running out of supplies so climb over. A dangerous face on which must pick route carefully.

Canadian $28,000 total budget including airfare meant sparse supplies. Rather difficult rock climbing of 1200 ft on rock buttress - ice climbing not so difficult as the rock. Fixed 4000 ft (1300m) rope through icefall between C2 and C3 and then all of rock buttress and sections of snow and ice above buttress to C3 - icefall has unstable seracs. Fixed ropes cut 3 times a day: very dangerous icefall. 4 members got caught in avalanche between BC and C1 during storm on 15th in descent but not hurt though Reville had to be dug out. Adamson caught in rockfall but only bruised. No one really wanted to go through these dangerous areas. Reville left immediately after was dug out. Robertson left before climb was over, about 6 Dec; had not expected to do much climbing.