원정 개요

BC north-northeast of point 3697 on Nepa Manaslu Map
ABC depot snow plateau
Biv on NW Face
High point on NW Face.

Took days to reach BC from Humpuk Cave, cutting through bamboo forest and making 2 small bridges. Only camp above BC had only depot. From there 13 Sept started up from depot for first time and put up small tent at about 4000m on NW Face. 14th night (9:00 pm) again up and at 6200m at 1:00 am 15th at small ridge when a big serac broke off higher on ridge and sent both members rolling down 100m into deep snow (Mr Yamanoi out in 5 minutes). Returned to depot. Next day Mr Yamanoi's ankle paining and later Mrs. Yamanoi had pain in several places including head (now having scan to determine degree of damage*). "This route dangerous, many seracs - maybe this route is not logical." Had seen only 2-3 pix and this face is virgin, so wanted to attempt it but not again after this. Returned to BC on 15th and climb finished. Not difficult technically.

* later on 27 Sept 98 - scan showed no damage to head.