원정 개요

BC at Lobuche (Pyramid Research Lab)
ABC for southeast side pair
High point on SE Face/Ridge route.

Comi and Magliano went up normal route on SE Face/Ridge with deposit 5800m and biv at 6250m on 11 Oct and at midnight of 11/12 Oct started for top but turned back at 7000m because impossible for 2 people to reach higher in very deep snow.

On 12th at 7:00 am other 2 members met them at biv in descent from summit via SW Ridge (Japanese route). Bufacchi and Passino had gone up on 10th Oct from 5500m and spent 2 nights on climb, one at 6000m at Col of ridge and other night at 6500m on SW Ridge to top on 12th about 6:30 am. All back in pyramid on 13 Oct evening. SE site too dangerous with serac threatening to break off and climbers exposed for 3 hours to this danger.

Passino wanted to do SW Ridge because it safer while Magliano not capable of such a technical route.