원정 개요

On 28th summit party was Robinson, Ousland, Macdonald, Arnette. Latter 2 turned back at about 8100m; Arnette tired and feet cold and MacDonald as guide went with him and lost her chance for summit. No more summit attempts because snow too deep as weather had changed.

On the 30th, the second summit team of Bob Sloezen, Jason Dittmer, Bob LaRoche, and Tony Smucler, Ang Passang and Lakpa Rita turned back below C3 due to deep snow and avalanche conditions. The other two team members, Mike Demartino and Henry Hamlin, had turned back from below C2 due to fatigue (Mike) and dizziness, nausea, and blurry vision (Henry).

Arnette and Ousland arrived at BC 8 Sept and ABC 10 Sept. Their late arrival meant MacDonald had to go down to meet them and stay with them for rest of climb and leader lost his assistant at his side.

MacDonald now does not want to climb again in Himalaya after having helped Swiss independent climbers, Alexander Jaggi, on same permit. Too many deaths starting with Michael Reinberger on Everest and including many more.

Mooroka and Jaggi = independent team above ABC.