원정 개요

Climbed German 1980 route and kept under central summit. New variation of routes on face; not exactly to French route high on mountain. Did not send more to top because too dangerous from avalanches of snow and of rock which came very near climbers several times and because very cold. Not much wind problem. Problem about 2 Sherpas at time of summit attack: they should have moved to C5 to help summiters descend but on attack day went down to C2 instead, so 2nd attack team had to support 1st one instead of making own attack.